I'm wondering if this is Cochylis molliculana - if it is it's a bit late. The other moth seems to be a Garden Carpet but not like one I've seen before - seems much more substantial.
Hi Mark, there's no problem with that being a rather brightly marked Garden Carpet - it does look very smart. The other one does seem to be a good candidate for Cochylis molliculana because it appears to have the yellowish head and thorax and the other markings look good. I wish you'd photographed it outside the pot, though! There's no problem with the time of year because it has two broods. My only sighting of it was on 22nd August 2010 (confirmed by dissection).
Dave, I'll put up another pic - I just had another go at it. Taking it out of the pot resulted in the inevitable flight - but if any of the other pics are any good I'll post. Any tips on depotting micros would be appreciated!
I agree with Dave, your Cochylis does look like molliculana, correct head colour compared to some confusion species. However, as it might be a new county record for Oxon, your micro recorder needs to adjudicate and might require the specimen.
Hello Mark, your vc23 micro recorder (Martin Corley) has looked at the images and agrees that they do look good for Cochylis molliculana. He may have other records awaiting processing but at present your specimen would appear to be the second county record after a previous one from the Rothamsted Insect Survey trap at Shifford.
And as you asked, here are a few notes about photographing micros based on what I do myself (which doesn't mean it is the best way at all). Sorry if it is a bit long-winded! My pictures are all taken on a north-facing windowsill in my study using a venerable Nikon Coolpix 4500 on a mini tripod, the camera generally facing along the line of the window-sill with the moth orientated so that it is looking out the window (not ideal but in my case a necessity due to the width of the windowsill compared to that of the tripod). North-facing is good because it is generally bright but never sunny. If the moth gets flighty then 99 times out of 100 it will fly towards the window and I simply re-pot it from the glass. I use flash more often than not and, because the camera's flash is off-set to the left, accept that I'm going to get a slight difference in brightness between one side of the picture and the other. I know there are ways around that but I'm happy with the results of what are for the most part simply record shots.
As for the moth itself, the first thing is to ensure that it is in a pot which is sufficiently large so that, when it is upended over whatever background material you are using, there is room for the moth to sit without touching the pot's sides. It also helps to have the background materiel free to be moved so that you can swivel the moth to be exactly side-on to the camera lens in order to get it all in focus. Upending the pot sharply onto the background surface will sometimes be sufficient to make the moth drop down and sit exactly as you want it. Having already set up the camera ready for a side-on or overhead shot as appropriate, I then take a quick flash picture while the pot is still preventing the moth's escape (this to stun it into keeping still - surprising how often it works!) before gently lifting the pot away and taking the pictures I want.
Of course, on many occasions you tap the moth onto the surface and it simply runs back up the sides of the pot. I persevere several times with the tapping-out option but if it is clear that it isn't going to work then there are two or three possible ways to continue. One is to leave the upended pot where it is, ready for a photo, and go away and do something else for a while in the hope that the moth gets fed up sitting vertically and drops down to where you want it (doesn't happen very often!). Another is to persuade the moth to come to rest inside the pot lid then slowly turn the pot around so that the lid is where you want it for a picture. If the moth stays still then you can attempt to remove the pot from the lid and take your picture of it still inside the lid. If that doesn't work either, then I resort to using the freezer to calm the moth down. 30 seconds or so is all it needs for a micro, or maybe a minute for a larger moth, but anything more than that could easily prove terminal so this has to be done VERY carefully. Once the moth has been removed from the freezer, speed is of the essence and I get it into position very quickly and take the necessary pictures as it 'comes to'. Most times the moth will just sit there as it warms up again, but very occasionally it will immediately start vibrating its wings and charging around, at which point you might as well give up!
If you just want a record-shot knock it out with ethyl acetate first. Only a few seconds are needed. (Probably nail-varnish remover (acetone) would do it, as well). This causes it no permanent harm and it will recover within a few minutes. For better, more life-like shots it often pays to wait for the thing to start coming round and it may be much more passively inclined for a while. Andy.
Hi Mark, there's no problem with that being a rather brightly marked Garden Carpet - it does look very smart. The other one does seem to be a good candidate for Cochylis molliculana because it appears to have the yellowish head and thorax and the other markings look good. I wish you'd photographed it outside the pot, though! There's no problem with the time of year because it has two broods. My only sighting of it was on 22nd August 2010 (confirmed by dissection).
ReplyDeleteDave, I'll put up another pic - I just had another go at it. Taking it out of the pot resulted in the inevitable flight - but if any of the other pics are any good I'll post. Any tips on depotting micros would be appreciated!
ReplyDeleteMark
ReplyDeleteI agree with Dave, your Cochylis does look like molliculana, correct head colour compared to some confusion species. However, as it might be a new county record for Oxon, your micro recorder needs to adjudicate and might require the specimen.
thanks Martin, unfortunately it's gone. But I will put up another pic.
ReplyDeleteHello Mark, your vc23 micro recorder (Martin Corley) has looked at the images and agrees that they do look good for Cochylis molliculana. He may have other records awaiting processing but at present your specimen would appear to be the second county record after a previous one from the Rothamsted Insect Survey trap at Shifford.
ReplyDeletethat's really great news! thanks!
ReplyDeleteYes, I chopped one from 2014 at the Shifford Rothamsted trap
ReplyDeleteAnd as you asked, here are a few notes about photographing micros based on what I do myself (which doesn't mean it is the best way at all). Sorry if it is a bit long-winded! My pictures are all taken on a north-facing windowsill in my study using a venerable Nikon Coolpix 4500 on a mini tripod, the camera generally facing along the line of the window-sill with the moth orientated so that it is looking out the window (not ideal but in my case a necessity due to the width of the windowsill compared to that of the tripod). North-facing is good because it is generally bright but never sunny. If the moth gets flighty then 99 times out of 100 it will fly towards the window and I simply re-pot it from the glass. I use flash more often than not and, because the camera's flash is off-set to the left, accept that I'm going to get a slight difference in brightness between one side of the picture and the other. I know there are ways around that but I'm happy with the results of what are for the most part simply record shots.
ReplyDeleteAs for the moth itself, the first thing is to ensure that it is in a pot which is sufficiently large so that, when it is upended over whatever background material you are using, there is room for the moth to sit without touching the pot's sides. It also helps to have the background materiel free to be moved so that you can swivel the moth to be exactly side-on to the camera lens in order to get it all in focus. Upending the pot sharply onto the background surface will sometimes be sufficient to make the moth drop down and sit exactly as you want it. Having already set up the camera ready for a side-on or overhead shot as appropriate, I then take a quick flash picture while the pot is still preventing the moth's escape (this to stun it into keeping still - surprising how often it works!) before gently lifting the pot away and taking the pictures I want.
Of course, on many occasions you tap the moth onto the surface and it simply runs back up the sides of the pot. I persevere several times with the tapping-out option but if it is clear that it isn't going to work then there are two or three possible ways to continue. One is to leave the upended pot where it is, ready for a photo, and go away and do something else for a while in the hope that the moth gets fed up sitting vertically and drops down to where you want it (doesn't happen very often!). Another is to persuade the moth to come to rest inside the pot lid then slowly turn the pot around so that the lid is where you want it for a picture. If the moth stays still then you can attempt to remove the pot from the lid and take your picture of it still inside the lid. If that doesn't work either, then I resort to using the freezer to calm the moth down. 30 seconds or so is all it needs for a micro, or maybe a minute for a larger moth, but anything more than that could easily prove terminal so this has to be done VERY carefully. Once the moth has been removed from the freezer, speed is of the essence and I get it into position very quickly and take the necessary pictures as it 'comes to'. Most times the moth will just sit there as it warms up again, but very occasionally it will immediately start vibrating its wings and charging around, at which point you might as well give up!
If you just want a record-shot knock it out with ethyl acetate first. Only a few seconds are needed. (Probably nail-varnish remover (acetone) would do it, as well). This causes it no permanent harm and it will recover within a few minutes. For better, more life-like shots it often pays to wait for the thing to start coming round and it may be much more passively inclined for a while. Andy.
ReplyDeletethanks everyone - I will give these ideas a try.
ReplyDelete