At the end of 2019 I made another post (here) with a progress report. As we are now half-way through 2020, I thought I would give a further update. In 2019 I was running a single trap, alternating between LED and actinic lights on different nights. Variations in weather and moon between "actinic" nights and "LED" nights made comparison rather difficult. At the end of the year, I worked out how (i.e. where!) I could run two traps in the garden simultaneously, so I bought another identical trap, spent the first three weeks of January on maintenance and for all of 2020 I have run them in parallel. I have tried to operate the traps twice per week in order to get enough data for comparison, and as there is a difference between the two trapping sites, I alternate the lights between the two locations. During 2020 I have made some other changes, which I'll mention shortly.
The results for these last six months as a whole are below:
2020 H1 Results | Actinic | LED | Overall |
Nights run | 40 | 40 | 40 |
Species caught | 154 | 166 | 210 |
Macro species | 101 | 109 | 133 |
Micro species | 53 | 57 | 77 |
Best night for species | 23-Jun | 23-Jun | 23-Jun |
Species on best night | 47 | 46 | 73 |
Best night for moths | 23-Jun | 15-Jun | 23-Jun |
Individuals on best night | 233 | 211 | 392 |
Total number of moths caught | 1136 | 1449 | 2585 |
I then found that the UV LEDs were extremely inefficient: this is a common problem at UV wavelengths, but hard to identify because most datasheets do not show the radiation flux (ϕe) that they emit. Only about 2% of the electrical energy was being converted to light and the rest was coming out as heat. After more research, I identified a source of UV LEDs that are about fourteen times as efficient, so in May I replaced six of the LEDs with these better versions. Heat dissipation is still a problem and I am limiting the current so as to keep chip temperatures below a conservative 70°C, meaning that the total power to the LEDs is just under 20W (the drivers consume another 2W).
These changes have made quite a striking impact on the relative performance, best illustrated by the cumulative number of moths caught. Since making the changes, the LED light catches about 35% more moths and 13% more species than the actinic.
7 May 2020 onwards | Actinic | LED | Overall |
Nights run | 16 | 16 | 16 |
Total species caught… | 127 | 144 | 182 |
… of which macros | 81 | 93 | 112 |
… of which micros | 46 | 51 | 70 |
Total moths caught… | 934 | 1275 | 2209 |
… of which macros | 605 | 909 | 1514 |
… of which micros | 329 | 366 | 695 |
I will continue this experiment for the rest of the year. I may make more changes to the LEDs, but when I think I have finalised the configuration, I will then look to improve the bonding so as to be able to run at a higher power: better bonding generally means it's harder to swap LEDs. I will probably also produce a new set of drivers that will power a subset of the LEDs at a lower current, in order to restore the option for compatibility with running off a battery. Finally, when I am no longer taking the light to bits to change components, I will use a less Heath-Robinson (pun acknowledged) way of mounting the light on the trap, and add baffles - but that might be a job for 2021.
Tim Arnold
Newton Longville, Bucks
All very useful stuff, Tim, and it will be interesting to see the results produced by a full year. I hadn't realised there was a problem with heat when using LEDs as a light source.
ReplyDeleteHi Dave, yes heat has to be taken into account. LEDs are (usually) far more efficient at converting electricity to light instead of heat than MV bulbs for example, but LEDs have their small size working against them in respect of being able to make the heat flow away.
ReplyDeleteFor example, the datasheet for my new ones gives Φe as 900mW with an electrical power input of a fraction below 2W. So that means about 1W of heat to dissipate, but the physical size of the substrate through which all that heat has to flow is only 3.5 mm square. Normally, that's not much of an issue because it can be dissipated by good contact with a heatsink: in fact, most low-power (domestic) LED lamps don't need a heatsink as such: they just use their metal fittings to conduct the heat away. My problem is that the best ways of making a good thermal contact usually involve permanent adhesive - and at the moment, I want to be able to take off one LED and substitute another as I tweak the design. That makes the thermal contact less effective, so the LED can't dissipate the heat as easily. Consequently, my heatsink is only at about 30°C when the LED itself is at 70°C.